pardon my french

Puzzle pieces

I am pleased to report (though a bit late) that my first atelier went very well. No disasters, incidents or accidents. My menu came to me relatively easily. We had to make a farce, or stuffing, of some sort and I wanted to use the squab legs for that to "check the box" for using the squab. Squab--pigeon, if we're calling a spade a spade--is not my cup of tea. It's gamey and the aroma reminds me of blood. It's a filthy animal. Dirty and tedious to butcher. I don't like it so I figure I can sort of hide it in a stuffing. Then, I thought it would be nice to make a fresh pasta. There's few things better in life than homemade pasta. Pasta. Stuffing. Ahh yes...ravioli. And, things developed from there.

I liked the idea of "surf and turf," squab ravioli and unilaterally cooked salmon fillet was my first plan for the main dish. Thank goodness I talked to the chefs, because they all turned up their nose at the idea. I had to use the salmon for the starter and sauteed squab breast for the main. I resisted knowing that's what everyone would be doing, but alas, we all did it because it made the most sense. I fight authority, authority always wins. After a few practice sessions at home with trusty friend, Carolyn, my menu was set:

Appetizer

Salmon tartare with olive oil, soy sauce, fresh dill, lime juice & zest, brunoised shallot and red pepper; mayonnaise made with peppercorn and dill infused olive oil and white wine; pomme frites seasoned with black pepper, espelette pepper & fleur de sel

Main dish

Squab breast with a crispy skin and a squab-port jus reduction; ravioli stuffed with braised squab leg, mushrooms, shallots finished in nut brown butter and parsley over a pea puree; sauteed shrimp marinated in garlic, parsley stems, soy sauce, lime zest, espelette pepper with a cognac sauce; confit tomato and glazed pearl onion garnish

My two main dishes are above, but sorry I forgot to snap one of the appetizer. It was a great experience and felt wonderful to be creative. Brainstorming with the chefs and friends was very helpful and my ideas evolved a lot over the week leading to the 6-hour endurance test.

My idea for the tartare accompanied by pomme frites came mostly because we were required to use the potatoes and I couldn't figure how to work them into my main dish. I asked the Chef "Bean" what he thought about doing a salmon tartare with frites as sort of a play on steak tartare. He wasn't over the moon for the idea, but as we talked it started to grow on him. I said that it would be a clean, precise plate. Perfectly batonneted potatoes. "If it is perfect, I like it. But it has to be perfect." (No pressure!)

We had a different chef for the day of the atelier. A very short man we all call "Napoleon." He's known to demand a loud and lively "OUI CHEF" from students and expects a lot from us in the kitchen. You can tell he really wants to share his knowledge, isn't bothered by questions and will take special interest in struggling kids. He used to be the chef for President Chirac and is a true artist when it comes to presentation and plating. About an hour in, he came over and asked what I was making. When I told him salmon tartare, he raised his eyebrows, shrugged and walked away. Oh, bother. 

I forged ahead with the menu and thankfully, he ended up really liking the dish. He liked the contrast of the cold tartare with the hot frites. Liked the infusion in the mayonnaise. Gave me a few ideas for alternative presentations, and finally uttered the two words we all hope to hear from the chefs: "tres bien." I had an internal second-long celebration (ran out to pound a Diet Coke!) and I jumped back in to focus on the looming main dish. 

Three hours later, I was anxiously drumming my fingers on the marble counter with my two finished plates steaming and waiting for Napoleon. I was hoping to finish in under five hours because we are allotted only four hours for our final exam. There were a lot of elements to my dish and everything takes more time than you expect. I had about 6 different pots to keep warm, I finally get everything on the plate and then everyone finished at the same time. We were all down to the wire and all rushing for the chef to taste. He finally told us not to worry if the food wasn't hot. Phew! Ten minutes later, he came around to moi. He said I had good organization today and he liked my presentation. He thought the "surf & turf" was a good idea. Again gave me some different plating ideas and gave me a nod of approval. "Today is good work for you."

"Merci chef." (Inside my head: yipee!)

Overall, our group of 8 came up with cool ideas. Squab sliders. A shortbread cracker with cheese and shrimp rolled inside the dough. Parmesan cup for salmon tartare. An eggshell as a cup for a sabayon. Everyone given the same puzzle pieces and we each came out with a different picture. 

Our second atelier is on Saturday and I've already been noodling over the ingredient list. I want to really focus on the time element and make sure I can tighten things up. Hustle. 

And I shouldn't have ever complained about pigeon...this time we have sweetbreads. So, if you happen to have any bright ideas for that, let me know. While I've never been one for the thymus gland of veal, Chef Stril said he prepared them once for Frank Sinatra at 3 a.m. and it was one of his favorite things to eat. Frank liked them fried. Maybe I'll try that…